I use a lot of spray cans and remedied it rather simply. I have never had a stoppage since doing this and it saves the mess of cleaning up or turning the can upside down and wasting its contents.
I have a problem dealing with polymerization of an alkyd paint. Occasionally a rubber-like layer will form on top of the paint. When we mix in the rubber-like layer, the paint becomes useless to us because it now contains particles that clog our spray guns. If you are familiar with these types of paints, I would certainly appreciate receiving any information as to whether or not the rubber-like layer is caused by heat, air or both.
I read with interest your reply to B.M., concerning the striations he is getting on his parts that are being dipped. Since he has changed to an air dry enamel, he is using a completely different coating.
I work in the Technical Center for a company manufacturing gasket materials. We are doing preliminary research into a new type of gasket material. I am hoping you may be able to help guide us on what coating methods to consider as we continue to scale our idea from the laboratory to production.
I am the Finishing Engineer in a custom job shop. We are encountering a lot of die cast parts that are corroded so severely that we can’t get them to plate. I’ve heard that some shops are coating similar cast parts with a conductive paint and then plating on top of it. Can you please tell me where can I find some information on this process.
In several past issues you stated, “...never, never use a phosphoric acid activated vinyl wash primer over a pretreatment.” In the past several decades, the exterior finish system on USAF and US Navy aircraft was chemical pretreatment film, phosphoric acid activated vinyl wash primer, primer and topcoat. After several applications of paint strippers and abrasive media spots of wash primer still remained.
We are having problems with getting the primer dry on our products (large steel welded assemblies) before the paint goes on. We are looking at the amount of primer we use, the type of primer, any additives and the temperature of the booth and the parts. Do you have some insight into this problem?
Is there a pretreatment that would allow better adhesion of moisture curing polyurethane (for water proofing) to woven nylon or crystalline polyurethane fabric?
We would like to improve the Distinctness of Image (DOI) on our motorcycle fuel tanks and seek your advise for the same. The present surface texture is not very good, because the tank’s raw material is steel sheet galvanized on both sides. Please advise us what to do to solve the problem. Your reply in this regard will be highly appreciated.
